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Care of Your Bunny

See below for a few basics on bunny care if you are just getting started. The information provided comes from our own research & experience, and should not be solely relied on. There are many great websites & other resources to gather knowledge from as well. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us.

Cages, Housing, & Other Supplies

Housing:

There are many great options for housing your bunny. Whether you are keeping your bunny in a cage or a hutch, ensure there is enough room for him/her to stretch out, stand up, and run around a bit. Keep in mind, food dishes, litter boxes, hideouts, etc. will take up space too. Your bunny should also get daily exercise outside of their cage.

Some people like to let their bunnies "free-range" in their house (with easy access to their food, water, and litter box). Personally, I do not support that practice due to the multiple safety issues - both for the bunny & you, but should you choose to go that route, please make sure your bunny is supervised at all times. Here's a couple of reasons why I don't recommend unsupervised free-roaming: Bunnies love to chew. Electrical cords pose a risk of electrocution to a bunny & those chewed cords become a fire hazard to you home & belongings. Carpet fibers can be ingested & cause a life-threatening blockage in the bunny's digestive tract. Always keep an eye on your bunny while they are out exploring & playing.

If you are planning on housing your bunny outdoors, choose a spot where they will be sheltered from the elements. Most bunnies will do fine in moderately cold temperatures - as long as they are given time to acclimatize (if previously kept indoors) and dry housing (sheltered from the elements) is provided. However, they are not as tolerant of heat as they lack the ability to perspire. So in summer months, you'll need to take appropriate measures to ensure they do not overheat.

Litter & Litterbox:

Bunnies are fairly easy to litter train as they are creatures of habit. You'll need to provide a litterbox that your bunny can easily access, but that litter & droppings will stay inside. There are many options for litter, but we like to use wood pellets. They are non-toxic and very pee & smell absorbent. Place your litterbox in the corner that your bunny likes to do business in. Placing his/her hay close by & even a bit of hay on top of the litter will sometimes help train them where to go too. 

Water Bottle or Dish/Crock:

We use water bottles with our bunnies. They hold more water than a crock, are less messy, and it is easy to see how much your bunny is actually drinking. They should be checked regularly to ensure they are functioning properly (no leaking or blocked/clogged).

Crocks are fine too, but can be spilled or filled with hay, feed, poop, etc. Because our bunnies are used to bottles, if you opt. to use one of these, please use it in addition to a bottle until you are certain your bunny is also using the crock. And keep in mind, the crock will need to be cleaned & refilled much more often than the water bottle.

Feeders:

You'll need a 2 containers for food - one for pellets (just a small dish is fine) and a decent sized hay feeder/hay rack.

Hideouts:

Bunnies love little hideouts & little platforms to jump on.

Chew Toys:

Bunny's teeth grow continuously & they need hay and chew toys to keep their teeth trimmed. There's a wide selection available at many pet stores, but they also enjoy fresh cut branches from  Willows, Aspens, and Apple trees, as well as many other varieties of trees.

Nail Care & Grooming Accessories:

A pair of nail trimmers/clippers are needed - especially if keeping your bunny indoors where they cannot dig & wear down their own nails and where they have potential to catch or snag on something (such as a carpet).

It is also a good idea to have a flashlight (to help see the quick) and some styptic powder on hand to stop bleeding (incase you accidentally cut into the quick).

Bunnies nails should be clipped about every 4 weeks. There are many great instructional videos on how to properly restrain your bunny & do this. Many vets and groomers will also do it for a fee.

You should also have a grooming glove/brush/comb to help with de-shedding. At about 5 months, your bunny's baby coat will be replaced by a transitional coat. After that, they will molt twice/year (season change).







​

Food & Water

Hay:

Bunnies should have unlimited access to fresh hay (preferably Timothy). The fiber is imperative to their digestive health & keeps things moving slow & steady.

Pellets:

Next, they will need bunny pellets. These will supply the other nutrients your bunny requires.

Veggies:

After 4 months of age, a bunny can be given a limited amount of fresh veggies. This should be a treat. Bunnies digestive systems are very sensitive & too many veggies can result in diarrhea (which can be fatal). There are also many veggies which are not good for your bunny. See links below for more information.

Water:

Bunnies also need unlimited access to fresh cool water.

Little Tip: we add 1Tbsp of Apple Cider Vinegar with Mother  to our bunnies' 1L water bottles - there's a host of benefits, but the biggest one we've noticed is less of that "ammonia-smell" in their pee!

​

Other Resources

Care of Your Bunny: FAQ

Care of Your Bunny

If you are a new bunny owner, here are just a few basics on bunny care just to get you started. The information provided comes from our own research & experience, and should not be solely relied on. There are many great websites & other resources to gather knowledge from. Please look below for some recommendations. Never stop asking questions & never think you've learnt all there is to know!

Cages, Housing, & Other Supplies

Housing:

There are many great options for housing your bunny. Whether you are keeping your bunny in a cage or a hutch, ensure there is enough room for him/her to stretch out, stand up, and run around a bit. Keep in mind, food dishes, litter boxes, hideouts, etc. will take up space too. Your bunny should also get daily exercise outside of their cage.

Many people will let their bunnies "free-range" in their house (with easy access to their food, water, and litter box). Bunnies love to chew cords (among other things), so you'll want to keep an eye on them while they are out.

If you are planning on housing your bunny outdoors, choose a spot where they will be sheltered from the elements. Most bunnies will do fine in moderately cold temperatures - as long as they are given time to acclimatize (if previously kept indoors) and warm, dry housing is provided. However, they are not as tolerant of heat as they lack the ability to perspire. So in summer months, you'll need to take appropriate measures to ensure they do not overheat.

Litter & Litterbox:

Bunnies are fairly easy to litter train as they are creatures of habit. You'll need to provide a litterbox that your bunny can easily access, but that litter & droppings will stay inside. There are many options for litter, but we like to use wood pellets. They are non-toxic and very pee & smell absorbent. Place your litterbox in the corner that your bunny likes to do business in. Placing his/her hay close by & even a bit of hay on top of the litter will sometimes help too. 

Water Bottle or Dish:

We like to use water bottles with our buns - we find they are less messy & less chance of bunny getting wet, but both are acceptable. 

Feeders:

You'll need a 2 containers for food - one for pellets and a bigger one for hay.

Hideouts:

Bunnies love little hideouts & little platforms to jump on.

Chew Toys:

Bunny's teeth grow continuously & they need hay and chew toys to keep their teeth trimmed. There's a wide selection available at many pet stores, but they also enjoy fresh cut Willow, Aspen, & Apple tree branches.

Food & Water

Hay:

Bunnies should have unlimited access to fresh hay (preferably Timothy). The fiber is imperative to their digestive health & keeps things moving slow & steady.

Pellets:

Next, they will need bunny pellets. These will supply the other nutrients your bunny requires.

Veggies:

After 4 months of age, a bunny can be given a limited amount of fresh veggies. This should be a treat. Bunnies digestive systems are very sensitive & too many veggies can result in diarrhea (which can be fatal). There are also many veggies which are not good for your bunny. See links below for more information.

Water:

Bunnies also need unlimited access to fresh cool water. Little Tip: we add 1Tbsp of Apple Cider Vinegar with Mother  to our bunnies' 1L water bottles - there's a host of benefits, but the biggest one we've noticed is less of that "ammonia-smell" in their pee!

​

Other Resources

Care of Your Bunny: FAQ
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